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Rich, I've been a Cub Cadet fan for many years and use the product commercially with success. Bird, who I'm glad to see is still participating in this forum (because in mho is a gentleman as well as knowledgeable), has hit a good point. Resale may be a problem either way, depends on how strong either brand is in your area. Up here in Yankee Land the Cubs are selling used for near list price if properly cared for. A few things to consider are; there is no "super steer" feature for the Cub, and its 3pt hitch is not as sophisticated as the NH. What the Cub does have over the TC, I believe, is its 4cyl. commercial diesel, and a Sims hard cab option. The 7360SS is the only Cub model that takes a "full" hard cab, that is a cab with all steel construction including doors. The cab may not be of value to you in your area, but up north the draft free seal and hot liquid heater are very welcome from Oct. to May. Whatever way you go you'll have a quatum leap from what you are running now. Drive each one if you can, ask the dealers if they have a demo model you can use at home. Actually working each one will tell you a lot. Good luck.

Cub Cadet or New Holland
Cub Cadet
Replies 7 Post by Ted Kennedy

Mickey Grider, without a whole bunch of hot air here are the results of my research: Danfoss Fluid Power (yes they have a website) now manufactures the 1627FV single lever, two spool (one with float), loader valve. Early 1627 series valves had internal spool leakage problems too numerous to mention and frequently failed after only a few hundred hard hours. The replacement valve made by Danfoss is better. Aside from the check valves (two, one per spool), there is nothing to repair as the spools are not re-buildable. Look between your work ports, see what looks like a bolt hex head? Unscrew these two check valves and clean in fresh hydraulic fluid. Gently blow them dry and screw them back in. If the problem still continues scrap the valve and buy a new one. Because the problem is only on one circuit when the spool is activated the integral pressure relief valve is not at fault, although, if cleaning the check valve solves the problem you may benefit from re-adjusting the prv.

Loader control
Loaders Back Hoes
Replies 22 Post by Ted Kennedy

Lefty, I agree with Murph. You don't want to hang a 643lb multi-purpose bucket on a machine as light as the 3010. The normal material bucket for that FEL is somewhere around 300lbs, I think. The typical 4 in 1 goes about 650lbs, so you'll be reducing your lift capacity by more than 300lbs. You'll also find that the cubic capacity of all types of multi-purpose buckets is less than a standard bucket by about 1/3. So why would anyone want one? On larger machines with greater forces the loss isn't as dramatic as it is on a compact, you'll see them frequently on big Deeres, Cases, NH's, Cats, etc. They are also popular on the larger skid steer machines that have 2000lb full height lift capacity. On the smaller machines, as Murph said, they really don't do much very well at all. The dozer blade is limited to pushing light material and puts a tremendous load on the bucket pins. The clamping feature exerts more force than the diminished lift, so even if you could hold it, you couldn't lift it to full height. You also have to add a set of front remotes and another valve to operate the additional cylinders, this could be a very expensive attachment after you total it all up (including the wear and tear). I use the Woods scrap grapple, it is lighter and has a full bottom plate and nice teeth, it works real well for most jobs where clamping is necessary. You can't doze with it, though, for that I rent a real dozer when I need it. Hope this helps.

Loader 4in1 Bucket
Loaders Back Hoes
Replies 4 Post by Ted Kennedy

Paul, Very Nice Job!

Skid plate to protecct tie rod
Parts and Repair
Replies 2 Post by Ted Kennedy

Arnie, believe what you want to believe. I'm sure that there have been some "whoppers" told relating to tractors breaking in half, but the truth is, it happens far too often with 3pt hitch hoes on compacts and I've seen several. How this happens relates driectly to the design of the tractor and the materials used and the powerful straight-line forces that can be generated by the bucket's cylinder - especially when your boom and dipper are fully extended and all of the force is transmitted to the top link. Aluminum housings are common on compacts, as are "frameless" unit construction designs (this is where the transmission and clutch housing are integral stress carrying members of the design). What I've seen happen is first the connecting bolts either loosen or strip their aluminum threads, this from stretching/shock forces generated when digging. Next a gap forms between the trans and "bell housing", this gap sometimes gradually widens, sometimes it goes all at once, and the result is the tractor sagging in the middle. This can occur during digging, or while driving, but is the result of digging. When this happens you can't drive the machine, its back is broken, and while it may not actually come apart in two pieces, your machine is toast. Figure on about six grand to get the typical compact back together. If you own a compact, regardless of whether you are using a hoe or not, you must be diligent about checking bolt torque in key areas. Your service manual should tell you what requires what. I have never seen this happen on a Cat II hitch or bigger tractor. As for Woods, Vt Steve, they're great machines and if you need to know more, either e-mail them or call them, you won't get "lip service", they'll bend over backwards to help. Woods owners' manuals are excellent as well, with above average illustrated parts breakdowns and well thought out sequential instructions. Kelly's instructions look like they can use some improvement. I know, I own and have helped assemble, both manufacturer's products.

Question
Loaders Back Hoes
Replies 9 Post by Ted Kennedy

Thomas, I really had to work hard on not going off the deep end with a response to your post. Both Jeff and TomG make good points, and I know what you're thinking, "...all I wanted was a little help!" Not knowing your background makes it hard to write a good response so if this isn't germane you'll have to forgive me. The very first thing I'd do is honestly ask myself what makes me think I want to do landscaping? Next, what do I know that is better than my competition? How much do I know about operating a business? How much capital do I have for startup, how much saved to live on? How well do I tolerate hard physical labor? If you can answer these questions in a positive way, honestly, then you've got a shot at the banks for a loan. I'll also tell you what I tell everyone who wants to get "in", and that is, go to work for a landscaper, a golf course, or a big nursery. Act like a sponge and soak up everything, but pay considerable attention to how your employer cost estimates jobs, how he/she orders plant stock, what kinds of equipment is owned, what is rented or leased. Consider some adult education classes in small business, agriculture, and landscaping if available. And if after you've gotten your feet really wet for about a year, and your thumbs start to turn green, then honestly ask yourself, "do I really want this?" If "YES", then welcome to the club.

Help for a Newbie
Garden and Landscape
Replies 10 Post by Ted Kennedy

Ralph, the best justification, IMHO, for buying a compact is the satisfaction of self-reliance. If you get too caught up in the abstracts of unknown cost analysis you'll miss the whole point of being an owner/operator. But if its numbers you want, I've got some for you. "Some Guy" starts his little landscape and design business with one flat hourly rate: $50.00. Total invested cost (including some attachments) for a Cub Cadet 7275: $29K. Total Numbers of hours on tractor to-date (five years): 650. Gross: $32,500. Net: $26K (after operating costs, not counting annual depreciation). In the sixth year, machine nets a profit. These figures are for just one machine and don't include all of the other stuff that goes into making a business profitable. Since the early startup days, he has to slide the rates up. This is passed on to the customer, who if you've done right by, doesn't mind paying the extra. You should really look at doing a much broader range of services if you want to be competitive. Still don't know what to do? Start a relationship with one or more quality nurseries in your area, tell them of your plans and ask them to consider using you on a per-diem basis (get insurance). You'll be surprised how much you'll learn about the business, what services are profitable, and what to charge. Armed with this knowledge, you can attempt to go it alone. One last note, depending on where you are, it pays to be a legitimate business.

Cost Justification
Tractor Projects
Replies 5 Post by Ted Kennedy

I like TomG's reply, and for the reasons he has listed I won't use the FEL for cutting sod commercially. It doesn't pay. I rent a high quality self-propelled sod cutter when I do take up sod. The cut sod is then hand rolled into 3 1/2 ft. diameter round bales, then I use the FEL bucket to cart them off. To put the sod back down, just roll 'em out. I try to time my home projects that require sod removal to coincide with a paying customer's job, but when I can't, I wait for a very rainy day and s-l-o-w-l-y move the bucket edge into the soaked turf while desperately trying to hold the proper distance from the top soil. This method is too slow and gives uneven sod thickness.

loader and bucket questions for landscape work
Loaders Back Hoes
Replies 6 Post by Ted Kennedy

Arnie, you have a good game plan. Many contractors are happy to sub-contract just the kind of work you are talking about. A suggestion, and that is, offer a "turnkey" package. For only a small amount of effort on your part you can offer: open and close trench, rough and/or final grade, and seed. Besides the hoe and FEL you'll need a rake, but that could be rented if you don't have a lot of startup capital. I think you'll do O.K., best of luck.

Trench and foundation pricing
Loaders Back Hoes
Replies 9 Post by Ted Kennedy

Art and GGMAN, ATI is the parent of BRADCO and a few others. They live at http://themajorequipmentcompany.com/major/ Kind of a long address, I'll try to provide the link.

Loader bucket teeth
Loaders Back Hoes
Replies 10 Post by Ted Kennedy

Paul, after the truck does most of the work I use a York 72" with gage wheels (it also has a retractble scarifier, and folding scraper blade - the scraper sometimes is useful for gravel too) and this seems to always work for me. Like Mr. rdunstan, I use the loader only for small spot fills. Experimenting is half the fun, try the rake first and if that doesn't do just right, monkey a little with the blade.

How to spread rocks on a driveway
Tractor Projects
Replies 6 Post by Ted Kennedy

Dear Ries, I admit to being biased towards Woods products for attachments and accessories for what I feel are good reasons. Woods is an American success story, a family business that has grown and kept pace with the needs of the industry and customers they serve. They have an excellent engineering staff whose friendly manner gains big points when dealing with customers or the public. They also invest heavily in the latest manufacturing engineering processes which translates into a better quality product at a reasonable price. Woods has an iron clad warranty, they'll do what is right to fix a problem or to make the customer happy. On the down side, they need to re-vamp their web site, it doesn't do justice to their product line, especially if you've seen how well their advertising brochures are laid out. To be sure there are many other makers of attachments at lower costs, but I favor Woods and will spend a little more to get a lot more.

kioti tractor
Kioti Tractors
Replies 8 Post by Ted Kennedy

Neven, in keeping with Bird and Roger's postings I'd like to also advise that you check your pressure relief valves. If, having tested everything else you should also check EVERY relief valve, if you have an open hydraulic system. Just one bad or leaking valve could cause the problem you describe. It is also a lot cheaper to replace than all of the cylinders.

hydraulic leak
Operating and Attachments
Replies 11 Post by Ted Kennedy

I've experience with three types: ag, R4 and turf. The ags are taller, the R4's are shorter but wider; both shed wet soil very well and give adequate traction for a compact. When I backhoe or do loader work in wet or muddy soli on a client's property, the ag's and R4's shed soil nicely and I don't leave debris on harder surfaces. Ag's and R4's if driven sanely, out of MFWD, on firm turf, really don't tear up the surface. Ag's and R4's do leave an impression on turf if the machine is heavy, though, and this ticks off some folks. The turf tires, while I've never gotten stuck, tend to pack the treads with wet/muddy soil. As soon as I get on the driveway they make a mess and I end up returning several days later when the debris has dried to cleanup.

Bar Turf tires vs Turf vs Ind for a B7500
Kubota Tractors
Replies 4 Post by Ted Kennedy

Hillbilly, I'm very sorry to hear about your problem with the Deere. I hope you can get it sorted out without shelling out. I think back on the days when my uncle started the family landscaping business and I recall at least six small, what we'd call compact today, tractors. My favorite was the Farmall Cub with a FEL that had a gravity dump bucket. Many changes have taken place since then, in particular, foreign domination of what was once an American market. Like it or not, we just can't get away from Japan.

JD 4400 hydro differental
Parts and Repair
Replies 21 Post by Ted Kennedy

Ray and the Steves, I am agreat fan of Woods Manufacturing and their products, and for good reasons. Woods has ALWAYS answered my questions directly, their engineering staff will actually talk to you (not down to you), their products are well built, and they honor their warranty. As far as the 9000 Grounbreaker goes, your comparison to four guys with picks, while good comedy, really doesn't do it justice. This unit has an excellent design, and more than adequate crowd force, but what is more important, its bucket force is awesome. Woods bought the Ganon bucket company a few years back and equips their backhoes with this excellent bucket. The 9000 series buckets have a "power hole" to give additional bucket force by repositioning the guide links. Boom swing yoke and stabilizer arms are high quality, super strong castings. Boom swing is made using two hydraulic cylinders. You also have renewable tension bushings on all of the high wear rotation points. If you think this unit can't dig, and base this opinion on experience, all I can say is that the tractor's hydraulics need to be tested. I've personally run the 9000, mounted on a fifty horse Kubota, the Woods cut through the rocky soil of CT with ease and was able to pull out rocks weighing well over three hundred pounds. Is the Woods better than the NH, I'd have to say, IMHO, YES. Is it better than a Bradco or Kubota (L35) hoe of similar reach, I'd have to say, NO. Much confusion exists concerning compact tractor backhoes and power, many people think that they will turn their tractors into incredible digging machines. This is, and isn't so; small hoe operation requires years of practical experience before you get the most out of them. Many inexperienced operators become disgusted when they can't rip a stump out with a one crowd move, or finish off to grade using swing by hitting the middle of the spoil pile - things they see full size construction machines do. But have patience and once you get the hang of it, you'll be glad that you made the investment. See if you can find a dealer who'll let you run one at your home. Good luck.

backhoe comparison
Loaders Back Hoes
Replies 19 Post by Ted Kennedy

Jon, just about everyone I know who has a compact tractor (or larger) just heaps. This allows you to attack the pile from any angle and fully mix its contents. I see 4x4 post and batten pressure treated bins in customers' and neighbors' yards occasionally, but they pitch the compost by hand. I work mine by bringing a full bucket to maximum height and then dump out. I work from the bottom after striking downward once, from the top, with the leading edge of the bucket. I also make sure to clean my engine radiator screen, air vents in the grille, and check the air filter because disturbing the pile releases lots of fine particles into the air during the drier seasons. Thank you very mulch.

Composting with a tractor
Parts and Repair
Replies 8 Post by Ted Kennedy

Gill, no manufacturer today is going to over-engineer their products. Looking at the steering linkage and other associated parts on the BX2200, I feel that Kubota has done a fine job, and the fact that it is a FEL rated machine shows me that Kubota is confident they made it strong enough. Now comes the "however" part of the story and that is, the low ground clearance mentioned by Bird. When in the woods or on rocky ground you must pay strict attention to the terrain. Stumps, rocks, depressions, and ruts should be avoided because while the differential may clear, the steering gear may not. I lost a tie rod deep in the woods by backing over a stump while turning - bent the rod almost beyond repair. I got off easy, others I know haven't been so lucky. As far as the grade holding ability, try E-mailing each manufacturer and specifically ask about each machine's capability. Happy hunting.

BX2200 Front End
Tractor Projects
Replies 8 Post by Ted Kennedy

Mark, I'm thinking your tractor is the non-MFWD model with gear drive? If so, I think you are right in the ball park at around $7K. The two wheel drive models aren't as good on the re-sale as the MFWD. Popularity and prices vary greatly around the country; when Wall Street does well, the young and newly rich in my area of New England will buy just about anything if they like it. In farm country, you may have a tough sale on your hands. I wish you luck.

Cub 7232 with 72 quot mower 550 hrs
Cub Cadet
Replies 2 Post by Ted Kennedy

Greg, you are a good man, you've done your homework. The dealer that told you that is either full of prunes, or an idiot, and at any rate should be avoided at all costs. The 7205 with mid mower, remote valve kit, and lift kit, sells in CT for $16600.00 msrp plus tax. Tractor: $14500, Mid Mower: $1200, Remote Valve Kit: $600, Lift Kit: $300. (I'm not sure, but I think that the mid pto is now optional and may cost extra) You can expect anywhere from 5% to 15% off depending on the dealer and if the MTD/Cub Cadet sales are offered. I have seen the complete 7205 with loader, mid mower and necessary options sell new, out the door, for $17200 during the spring sales period (financed through dealer).

Cub Cadet Oregon who has the good prices
Cub Cadet
Replies 4 Post by Ted Kennedy